Thatched cottages, a hidden beach, and some of Ireland’s most dramatic sea cliffs, all in one unforgettable day.
Ask most first-time visitors to picture Ireland and they’ll describe green fields, castle or city walking tours, and pubs. They’ll talk about the Cliffs of Moher, Ring of Kerry, the Gap of Dunloe, Kildare, and more. All great places to visit. But you rarely ever hear about Southwest Donegal, a beautiful place hardly touched by tourism.
Far north, deep in the Gaeltacht, where Irish is still spoken as a first language, it genuinely can feel like there are more sheep than people. It’s remote, it involves driving on the tiniest roads through vast valleys, and it rewards you for making the effort with breathtaking scenery that few people ever get to see in person.
I took my family through the southern portion of Donegal to see some of the highlights. You may wonder what’s there to see and do in the middle of nowhere? How about a hidden beach that could trick you into thinking you’re in the Mediterranean, if it weren’t for the sheep along the mountain? Or cliffs nearly three times the size of Cliffs of Moher? Or people who are keeping their language and culture alive, no matter how ancient it may feel to the modern world?
There’s certainly more than one day’s worth of things to see and do in Donegal. But like us, most people are limited to one day. So here’s how to make that one day count.
Before You Go: A Few Practical Notes
Getting there. Southwest Donegal is genuinely remote. There are no “N” roads once you get past Killybegs. Trust me, this is part of the charm. While we based ourselves closer to the border of Sligo, you may want to consider either Donegal or Killybegs for your base while visiting this area. And give yourself time; the roads are narrow and winding. We experienced three separate spots where road works slowed our drive. This means that each side must take turns through one lane. It’s not anything dramatic, just adds a few minutes to your drive.
You’re in the Gaeltacht. Road signs in this area are often in Irish only. Glencolmcille appears as Gleann Cholm Cille, and Malin Beg as Málainn Bhig. The people you meet at the beach or in the Folk Village shop will likely be speaking Irish. I consider this a perk. It really gives you the feeling of what Ireland would be like without European influence, and you’ll have no issue communicating with anyone involved in tourism in English.
Driving an EV? Wow! You’re “mad” like me! I didn’t get to drive an EV here, but I noticed where I could charge and whether others were driving EVs here. It may not be recommended, but I do think it is doable with proper preplanning. Make sure you’re charged up at the ESB charger in Killybegs before venturing out, and that you save enough range to make it back there and then some, just in case you need to travel to Donegal for a backup faster charger.
What to pack. It was warm enough to wear a bathing suit at Silver Strand, but then I wished I had a rain jacket while climbing up the cliffs later in the evening. Don’t be an idiot like me and wear your sneakers down the steps to the Strand. And bring a towel to clean off your feet before the ascent. Save your sneakers for the cliff climb. As I chickened out on the cliff walk and started heading down, I noticed an elderly Irish woman starting her own climb with a walking stick and a rain jacket. She was definitely more prepared than me.
Stop 1: Glencolmcille Folk Village (Morning)
Start your day at the Glencolmcille Folk Village Museum (Gleann Cholm Cille). This is a “living history” folk village: a cluster of traditional thatched cottages, each furnished to represent daily life in a different century, so you walk through Irish rural life across the generations as you move from house to house.
Catholic roots. What makes this place special is the story behind it. The folk village was founded in the 1960s by the local priest, Father James McDyer, as part of a community effort to slow emigration and give the parish a future by drawing visitors and creating local work. So visiting isn’t just sightseeing; it’s supporting exactly the kind of rural community that keeps this corner of Ireland alive.
Don’t skip the shop. It’s stocked with locally made products, and it’s a genuine chance to spend your money where it does the most good. We purchased a thatched house figure with a light inside, handmade in Donegal. We also picked up gifts for family members, and the kids found a book called “Teach Your Cat Irish,” which they’re now using to teach themselves simple phrases in Irish.
Open seasonally. This is a seasonal attraction, open from Easter until September. Check dates and times before adding to your itinerary. Give yourself about an hour here, plus time to peruse the shop.
Stop 2: Malin Beg & Silver Strand (Afternoon)
Just minutes away from Glencolmcille, Malin Beg offers one of the best reasons to visit this area: Silver Strand (An Trá Bhán), a perfect horseshoe cove of pale sand tucked between green headlands. It looks less like Ireland and more like a hidden Mediterranean beach, that is until you put your toes in and feel the icy cold North Atlantic waters.
No step-free access. The catch, and it’s a real one: the beach sits at the bottom of a steep cliff, and you reach it by descending a long staircase of more than 170 steps. Not exactly accessible-friendly. Going down is easier than climbing back up, but the steepness requires careful navigation in both directions. Thankfully there is a bench where you can sit and enjoy the view if you don’t want to go all the way down, or need a break.
Bring what you need. Since we were visiting during a heatwave at the beginning of summer, the beach had a decent number of visitors, but wasn’t crowded. Several visitors went all in, and I must commend their bravery. Many others were simply enjoying the sand and view. No one was bringing beach gear like chairs and umbrellas. Keep that in mind since there was no shade or place to sit.
Parking is limited. We squeezed into the only space available, which made us the annoying people blocking the path to the gate entrance to the steps. When we returned, a new row of cars was created, making the tight space even tighter. But I wish I had known to do that instead of parking by the gate.
Navigation. My itinerary mentioned “Malin Beg” and “beach” but I had forgotten what was here. I thought it was just a beach overlook. I hadn’t planned for anything more than a quick view. Initially I put “Malin Beg” into the navigation, that is, until it started taking me down a road that appeared to bring you to an overlook of the cliffs. “This doesn’t seem to be going to a beach,” I said, and checked the maps. “Silver Strand” was nearby, so I switched to that destination. Moments later we were arriving at a parking lot. We got out and…just wow. Totally blown away.
Unprepared. My husband was ready to take a few pictures and go, but the kids were several steps down already. They were absolutely thrilled. The boy made it all the way down while we grabbed the girl and got her to remove her shoes. My husband decided to stay on the bench to enjoy the view because he had no interest in getting sand on him, and that’s totally fair. I followed the kids down the stairs.
Beach time in Ireland, really? How was I to know that I would be in Ireland during a heatwave and that going to the beach might actually be doable? My only Ireland beach experiences were cold and windy, and I was usually wearing a hoodie. I had one experience at Enniscrone (Sligo) where the day was sunny and my cousins and I hiked up our pants, and took our shoes off to feel the sand and water. But this time, at Silver Strand, it was in the 70s, sunny, and not particularly windy. Point is, if you actually want to spend time here, plan that into your day. That might mean starting your day earlier, or skipping something else.
Stop 3: Sliabh Liag Boat Tour from Teelin (Afternoon)
We chose a 4pm boat tour through Sliabh Liag Boat Tours, run by Paddy. They run every two hours, so you can choose a time that works for you. You can park at Teelin Pier for free, and must arrive about 30 minutes prior to check in and get life vests for any small children in your group.
Seeing the cliffs from the water is a great way to get a sense of the scale of these cliffs. Plus, if the skies are cloudy, you end up getting a better view from below than you would from the top. The best part is having a local guide tell you about their experience living near and growing up on these cliffs. They explain to you what you’re looking at (the wildlife, hidden caves, the “giant”), show off their lobster traps, and even let you go swimming if you dare.
Our boat driver couldn’t get over what nice weather we were having for our trip. He told us it was actually rare that we got as close as we did to the cliffs, and that he drove us that way so we could get a really up close view of them that most others don’t. On our return journey, he let all five kids on our boat take turns driving. This was definitely a highlight! Don’t worry, he kept a hand on the wheel and the life vest handle while my four-year-old drove (she kept slipping off the seat). Likely the oldest of the kids, my son did a great job driving!
Check out the Sliabh Liag Boat Tours for operational times and be sure to book ahead. But also remember to be patient and understanding because they can’t control the weather! If the waters are not safe, they cancel the trip. And don’t ask them to find dolphins for you. They can’t control them either.
Stop 4: Sliabh Liag (Slieve League) Cliffs (Evening)
Sliabh Liag is among the highest and most spectacular sea cliffs in Ireland, rising 600 meters, or roughly 2,000 feet above the Atlantic. Where the Cliffs of Moher come with crowds and coaches, Sliabh Liag stays comparatively wild and quiet. That’s the trade: fewer facilities, more raw drama.
Note that we made it past the visitor center after closing time at 6pm. Had we arrived here before our boat tour, we could have gone inside to the cafe and used the shuttle bus to bring us to the top. But we weren’t early risers on our holiday, and we weren’t staying locally either, so we didn’t have time to fit this in before the boat ride. Order stop 3 and 4 based on what works best for you.
How parking works. There are two lower car parks that require payment and a 30-45 minute steep walk up a paved road, about 2km (1.2 miles). Restrooms are available here. A livestock gate will stop you from driving further along (keeps the sheep in), unless someone there tells you that you can drive to the top. Generally the upper viewing area is reserved for buses and accessible parking. But we arrived around 7pm and were allowed to continue to the top. Specifically, there was a woman standing near the restrooms who told us to go ahead past the gate. This allowed us to bypass the long walk with the kids, which I appreciated. However, it did look like a great walk with beautiful views if you’re interested in that. Be aware that people and sheep will be on this road, and be careful of any vehicles coming towards you.
The cliff walk. At the top, no buses, no crowds. Just people coming and going as the first rain of our entire trip began to dampen the ground. We took our photos at the viewing area and then ascended. I fell almost immediately. This isn’t an achievement. I was just clumsy and hurt my knee falling forwards on the dirt steps (I also fell and hurt the same knee two days prior at Mullaghmore, go figure). I continued on, but was less enthusiastic about it. I worried about the steps becoming slippery with the light drizzle, especially for my four-year-old. My fears escalated as I stupidly turned around and looked down. It was daunting enough and I wasn’t even at the top.
So I quit. My husband helped me down and I took my four-year-old to the car. The boy, however, wasn’t willing to come off the cliff. He insisted on continuing, so husband joined him and they made it to the top. I was really proud of him for being so interested and unwilling to give up. He even shouted down to me from most of the way up, “You told me to never give up, so I’m not giving up.” So fair. He’s still annoyed that he couldn’t do “the whole thing” even if it took hours.
Sunset views. During my research for this trip, I read that going in the evening around sunset is the best time to go for stunning views and low crowds. But keep in mind that sunset is later in the evening here: around 10pm. Not exactly best for families with small children. You’re also gambling on whether you’ll get views or clouds.
My suggestion? Watch walk-through videos before deciding if this hike is right for you and your family. There is no shame in enjoying the view from the safer viewing point and calling it a day. But if the conditions are right and you/your family are prepared for the challenges of this cliff walk, then go for it!
Going kid-free? I can help you book a guided cliff experience.
Stop 5: Killybegs
You can absolutely fill a single day with the four stops mentioned above. But if you have the time, and/or you’re looking for a place to eat, Killybegs is a great option.
Killybegs is Ireland’s largest fishing port, and it’s the half-way point between the Cliffs and Donegal Town. The working harbor, lined with trawlers, is a sight in itself and a hit with kids who like boats.
It’s also a practical hub for those driving an EV, as there was an ESB Fast Charge Point right on Shore Road, highly rated on PlugShare. I saw someone actively using the station, so that confirms it was working and people have used it. Perfect opportunity to charge while you eat.
Keep in mind, a lot of places in Ireland’s small towns close earlier than you’d expect, so be sure to check operating hours and plan accordingly. We had The Fleet Inn on our itinerary, as there tend to be live musicians playing at the pub here. But the sign on the door says kitchen operates only from Thursday to Sunday. So we went nearby to the Asian Kitchen, where we had delicious noodles. While we were disappointed to miss out on live music, we were tired, hungry, and still had an hour of driving ahead of us, so a quick dinner was best for us.
Earlier in the day we stopped into The Rusty Mackerel, a great pub just minutes away from Teelin Pier. I shared a pizza with the kids. This is a great option for immediately before or after your boat tour, which is nearly two hours. Alternatively, bring a picnic with you! Whatever you do, plan your meals ahead of time to ensure you’re not caught starving in the middle of nowhere.
Planning Your One-Day Route
My recommendation is to start at the end and work your way back, but you can obviously do either direction depending on where you’re coming from. We were coming from south of Donegal Town. It took us about 1.5 hours to get to the Folk Village. Then we worked our way back through Malin Beg, Teelin Pier/Cliffs, and Killybegs. Give yourself roughly 30 minutes between each stop to navigate the small roads and potential traffic/road works. Book the boat tour first, since its sailing times will anchor the rest of your day.
Ready to Plan Your Own Donegal Trip?
Southwest Donegal is exactly the kind of place I love helping travelers experience: beyond the highlight-reel stops, into the parts of Ireland that most itineraries miss. If you or someone you know is dreaming of a trip like this one, I’d love to help you build it. Plan with MB
